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This is yet another incarnation of my personal blog. Here's where you can read about what I do when I'm not at work: hiking, seeing plays and other shows, eating, traveling, etc.

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TR: Iceline (Yoho National Park)

Posted by gck Tuesday, November 5, 2013 0 comments

Distance: 8 miles
Elevation gain: 2265 feet

Here’s the beginning of my catch-up trip reports for the summer, beginning with three hikes from the Canadian Rockies. I was pretty bad about completing my trip reports for my two trips last year (did I really not post any? Looks like I’m further behind than I thought!). For now, I’m starting with the last hike of the trip because it was also the last hike I did (and did not write about) on my previous trip.

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A lot of the hikes I do sell themselves pretty well through pictures. Iceline is not one of them. Last year when I was doing my hike research, I noticed that many people raved about Iceline. But when I looked at photos, I saw this barren wasteland with big chunks of ice and thought, "Seriously?!" On my Cirque Peak hike, I talked to a couple who had been going hiking in the area for many years, and they said Iceline was their favorite. So on my last day in town, I decided to see what all the fuss was about. It didn’t end up being my favorite, but I did like it a lot, especially for its uniqueness. On this trip, having already done a summit hike and a lake hike, Mike and I settled on Iceline for the last day.

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left: Takkakaw Falls, right: moraine and interesting imprints in the rock

There are different trailheads that can be used to access this hike. We chose probably the most popular one, at the Whiskyjack Hostel. Many people park along the road, but we parked in the nearby Takkakaw Falls lot for a closer look at the massive falls before walking to the real trailhead. The falls are a popular drive-up destination.

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left: paintbrush, right: trail sign with many options

People who love the Rockies tend to be mountain and glacier people, not forest people. A lot of trails in Washington will sit in the forest, maybe next to a babbling creek, for about two miles before starting the serious climbing. In Banff and Yoho, the beginning of the hike is switchback after switchback until you’re over the treeline. Fortunately, on this hike, there are views of Takkakaw Falls and surrounding mountains to look at as you go upwards (and Daly Glacier, which feeds the falls, quickly comes into view).

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Emerald Glacier, waterfalls, tarn

Finally, the elevation gain calms down when you hit a moraine. (A moraine is an area of debris left behind by a glacier – in this case, the entire trail is moraine) Here, the Presidential Range is right next to the trail, the glaciers are practically at trail level, and the name Iceline makes sense. It’s impossible to convey the scale and presence of these things from pictures. From a distance or from pictures, all of the debris looks pretty boring. But there’s a lot to see up close. There’s actually quite a variety of rocks, and some of it had interesting imprints. (The Burgess Shale, one of the greatest fossil fields in the world, is located in Yoho National Park.) And even though the moraine looks all rocky and barren, some flowers still manage to grow up there.

IMG_2670_stitchYoho Valley, mountains (more detail)

One reason the Iceline isn’t a typical trail is that there is no destination. Not only is there no single standout sight, there isn’t even an obvious end. You can just keep on walking. The trail forks early on to head over to Yoho Pass and Emerald Lake, then forks later on to go to Lake Celeste and Laughing Falls. There are options to continue on into Little Yoho Valley and the Whaleback, and there’s even a backcountry hut out there for people to stay overnight. But most dayhikers do what we did – walk until it’s time to turn around. It seems like each section of the trail is separated by a small ridge, and when you climb over it, there’s a new surprise to see: waterfalls, a tarn, a view of a new mountain, etc.


Ground squirrel, waterfalls, panoramic views

I was surprised by how many people were hiking the trail this time (there weren’t nearly as many last year in early September). However, since there’s so much open space, it didn’t feel crowded. Hopefully this is a convincing description of the hike that makes it sound more interesting than barren wasteland! More to follow.

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It’s the most wonderful time of the year

Posted by gck Sunday, November 3, 2013 1 comments

…NOT. People always think that rain is the worst part about Seattle weather, but it’s not true. Lack of sunlight is the worst part. During daylight hours, we already get a measly amount of sunlight coming through the thick layer of clouds that blankets the sky from October until June. It’s just rubbing salt in the wound to see complete darkness when we leave work each day. So while I was happy to get an extra hour of sleep today, I am more unhappy about this:

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Oh well.

Snow and low temperatures in the mountains also means I’m done hiking for the year. I’ve been pretty behind on my blog entries, but I’ll have some catch up trip reports coming soon.

In other news, I finally got a new camera! The Canon EOS M dropped low enough in price to make it worth buying. I might regret it once I see all the Black Friday deals, but I didn’t want to wait that long because I need to figure out how to use the camera properly before my trip in December. Sadly, I didn’t get the camera before my last hike, so instead, I’ve been practicing on my cat, who hates it.

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He’s an attractive subject to photograph, though! And trickier than hiking scenery because he doesn’t want to stay still.

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Yeah, I guess this was just an excuse to post cat pictures. More content coming up soon!

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